Mason Cycles are resilient hand-crafted crafted bicycles with very high quality finishes, but to maximise the ownership experience and potential of your bicycle, we advise that you clean the frame regularly with a soft-fibre rag and bicycle-friendly detergent. It is best to support your Local Bike Shop and allow them to perform regular services. It's a good idea to make sure that you apply/re-apply grease to the MultiPorts whenever you have to remove them from the frame.

Your Mason bicycle is designed to last a lifetime full of adventure with the proper care. Here we outline what you can do to help prolong the life of your Mason frame. Each frame material has different requirements when it comes to care and maintenance. 

General Care Tips:

Keeping the bike clean and free of dirty water and salt are important parts of regular maintenance. Dirt collects at joints and threads and holds salt and moisture, so leaving it in contact with the frame and working parts of your bicycle can lead to accelerated corrosion and premature wear/inefficiency of components. We recommend cleaning your bike thoroughly once a week at the very least if you are riding regularly, and even after every ride if you're riding through winter on salted roads.

On top of this, it is essential to strip the bike down to the frame annually, cleaning all areas that interface with other components and thoroughly regreasing during reassembly. Paint chips should be touched in as soon as possible.

Carbon seatposts in metal frames are often prone to seizing if not removed, cleaned and re-greased regularly. This should be done on a bi-annual basis.  

Aluminium:

Aluminium is a non-ferrous metal so it's not prone to rust like steel. There are still possibilities of other types of corrosion however, predominantly galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion forms at the meeting point between two types of metal with salt and water acting as the catalyst.

Our aluminium frames are electrostatically treated to ward off this type of corrosion for as long as possible, but there are steps you can take to further help prevention. 

As mentioned, corrosion usually forms at the meeting points between different metals using salt and water as catalysts - Metal fender stays bolted to seat stay eyelets are a typical example of this. When cleaning, pay particular attention to the eyelet bolts in the frame (bottle cage, mudguard mounting points etc) and the multiport inserts, remove all the stainless screws and multiports and refit with fresh grease during the annual strip down.

Steel:

Steel frames are generally very durable, but due to their iron content they are susceptible to a type of oxidation typically known as rust. Over time, any ferrous metal will oxidise in this way if exposed to oxygen and water. 

All of our steel frames are treated with a cataphoretic rust prevention system that involves dipping the entire frame to coat it inside and out before the final paint and lacquer coats.  

During the bike's annual strip down we recommend treating the inside of the frame using a rust inhibitor such as "Frame Saver" or similar. These act as water dispersants and leave a coating on the inside of the frame which helps prevent corrosion. Effort should be made to coat every tube internally, through the multiport openings, vent holes and eyelets and then worked around the tubing by rotating the frame. 

Carbon fibre: 

Carbon fibre is not prone to oxidation of any kind, and your carbon Mason fork should happily last the lifetime of the bike. The caveat to this is that carbon is more easily damaged by impacts than metal alloys. For this reason it is important to regularly check the fork and other carbon components for wear or hairline crack, and this is especially important following accidents or impacts of any kind. It is also advisable to apply protection tape to mudguard contact areas such as beneath the fork crown or behind the 3D printed adapters on the Aperture fork.

Frame Protection Tape:

It is a good idea to use a good frame protection tape on your frame or bicycle, especially in the areas where frame bags are mounted and where gravel and rock strikes are likely. We recommend applying the tape approx. 10 days after frame or bicycle purchase if possible, to ensure the paint and decals have fully cured.

BUT, be warned, care must be taken on fitting and removal as the adhesive can be very aggressive and may cause paint or decal damage if removed incorrectly. Our paint warranty does not cover damage caused to the frame or fork through tape removal. Normally, frame protection tape and film are easily repositionable during application but will develop full bonding strength after around 8 hours. We highly recommend warming the tape before removal, pouring hot but not boiling water over the area, or warming with a hair drier [not hot air gun!] works well for this, and being very careful during the removal process. It's a good idea to pull the tape away along the surface of the frame or fork tube, rather than directly off at 90 degrees to the surface. Be especially careful in the areas over decals.

Always follow the manufacturers instructions when fitting and removing the frame protection. We recommend Effeto Mariposa 'Shelter' products.

Titanium:

The same maintenance tips also apply for our Titanium frames and then a wipe over with a good automotive 'vinyl and rubber care' product really brings back the lustre to the Ti finish! Spray the product onto a soft cloth and then apply to the frame tubes. Never spray directly onto the frame, as it's too easy to contaminate the brake rotors and pads with silicon. If you don't have the above product, then baby-oil works really well too! (Please ask baby first).

We are very happy to say that our EU customers will not be paying any more for a Mason bicycle than they did before Brexit: As we have our frames made in Italy, we use various Italian/EU made parts are used on our bicycles and because we assemble all bikes and carry out final prep in the UK, they fall within 'Rules on Origin' regulations and we're able to export with these preferential rates (0%). You will be charged a small surcharge for administrative purposes by the courier, this is normally around €20-€30 for the shipment,
Please note that the following applies only to our framesets and complete bicycles. Spare parts and accessories that we supply, for example seatposts and axles, do not originate in the EU and as such will be charged 4% duty approximately. EU Bundles: You will not be charged duty on the frameset, but will liable for ~4% duty on the wheelset portion of this bundle when you import it.
How does customs/import work when buying from within the European Union?: The ordering process is straightforward but with a couple of small differences.
Our website prices include UK VAT. Your order will not include 20% VAT, and this will be deducted at the checkout stage.
For example, a £3175 bike will cost : £2645.83 + shipping + handling charges. Approx. 20% VAT* when you receive your order

*When your order is received by customs in your country you will be contacted by them around the time of your delivery to pay the VAT upon delivery, which will depend on your local VAT rate. You will not pay any import duties or tariffs. So, the total price you pay for your Mason will be very similar to the prices we state on our website, albeit with a difference of exchange rate.

Collection in person from our UK premises: You are very welcome to visit us and collect your bicycle in person, but it is important to note that purchasing your product in the UK and 'hand carrying' to your home country does not circumvent UK VAT, or import duties/customs charges where they are applicable.

EU 'Rolling Chassis' Bundles: You will not be charged duty on the frameset, but will liable for ~4% duty on the wheelset portion of this bundle when you import it.

We regularly update the manuals for all new and existing models as part of our #ridedrivendesign model development. Please CONTACT US if you would like further information.

Bokeh/BokehTi: Here's the initial set-up and care guide. Inside the manual you'll find cable routing information, frame assembly guidance and all the essential dimensions for the Bokeh frameset. If you have any unanswered questions then please contact us directly.

Resolution / Definition / Aspect: Here's the V1 initial set-up and care guide. We are in the process of updating this to the latest version. If you have any unanswered questions then please contact us directly.

InSearchOf: Here's the initial set-up and care guide. Inside the manual you'll find cable routing information, frame assembly guidance, mudguard and rack safety information and all the essential dimensions for the InSearchOf frameset. If you have any unanswered questions then please contact us directly.

RAW: Here's the initial set-up and care guide. Inside the manual you'll find cable routing information, frame assembly guidance and all the essential dimensions for the RAW frameset. If you have any unanswered questions then please contact us directly.

Exposure: Here's the initial set-up and care guide. Inside the manual you'll find cable routing information, frame assembly guidance and all the essential dimensions for the Exposure frameset. If you have any unanswered questions then please contact us directly.

Yes, it is a good idea to use a good frame protection tape on your frame or bicycle, especially in the areas where frame bags are mounted and where gravel and rock strikes are likely. We recommend applying the tape approx. 10 days after frame or bicycle purchase if possible, to ensure the paint and decals have fully cured.

BUT, be warned, care must be taken on fitting and removal as the adhesive can be very aggressive and may cause paint or decal damage if removed incorrectly. Our paint warranty does not cover damage caused to the frame or fork through tape removal.

Normally, frame protection tape and film are easily repositionable during application but will develop full bonding strength after around 8 hours. We highly recommend warming the tape before removal, pouring hot but not boiling water over the area, or warming with a hair drier [not hot air gun!] works well for this, and being very careful during the removal process. It's a good idea to pull the tape away along the surface of the frame or fork tube, rather than directly off at 90 degrees to the surface. Be especially careful in the areas over decals.

Always follow the manufacturers instructions when fitting and removing the frame protection. We recommend Effeto Mariposa 'Shelter' products.

Our complete bikes are '99%' assembled which means that they're fully built by us, then slightly disassembled for shipping. When you receive your bike you just need to fit the front wheel, position the handlebars and preload the headset, and fit the seatpost. Then it's fully assembled again.

This short film is intended to take you through the steps to unpack and assemble your newly delivered Mason bicycle. Led by Alex who heads up our Customer Service and Dispatch operations. If you're in any doubt about any of the assembly stages involved, please consult the product manual available in our website FAQs, contact us directly for advice or speak to your local bike shop to discuss new bike assembly.

This short film is intended to take you through the steps to unpack and assemble your newly delivered Mason bicycle. Led by Alex who heads up our Customer Service and Dispatch operations. If you're in any doubt about any of the assmebly stages involved, please consult the product manual available in our website FAQs, contact us directly for advice or speak to your local bike shop to discuss new bike assembly.

Resolution / Definition: When you take delivery of your frameset, please carefully read the PDF (via link HERE and below) for guidance on:

• Box contents
• Cable routing guidance
• Assembly tips

Initial Set-Up PDF

Bokeh / BokehTi: When you take delivery of your frameset, please carefully read the PDF (via link HERE and below) for guidance on:

• Box contents
• Cable routing guidance
• Assembly tips

Initial Set-Up PDF

InSearchOf: When you take delivery of your frameset, please carefully read the PDF (via link HERE and below) for guidance on:

• Box contents
• Cable routing guidance
• Assembly tips

Initial Set-Up PDF

Yes we do! You can find more information on our website here.

Our Titanium frames, Aspect and BokehTi come with seatposts.

The steel and Alu. frames do not, but our Penta seat post is the perfect product to compliment our frames and bikes and is available here.

All Rolling-Chassis come with seatposts.

Mason Cycles framesets have a warranty which entitles the original purchaser to a free replacement within 5 years of purchase should there be any problem with the materials or workmanship on the frame. This covers faulty manufacturing, but not normal wear and tear.

The paint warranty is 2 years.

We reserve the right to repair where possible and this will usually be our first course of action where practical.

This guarantee only applies to the original purchaser of the bike.

If the product is purchased from an authorised MASON dealer, then any warranty enquiries and subsequent agreement, repair or replacement must be dealt with initially through the authorised dealer.

Please follow this link for more details regarding the Mason Cycles warranty.

It is our sincere hope that it never happens, but Mason Cycles also offer a crash replacement discount. In the event of a crash, please contact us to discuss further.

Aspect, Resolution2 and Definition2: We recommend the use of maximum 30mm tyres with mudguards. Without mudguards these frames can accommodate max 35mm width road (untreaded) tyres.

Bokeh and BokehTi: 700c: 700c x 35 or 40mm is the sweetspot, although a 700 x 45mm will fit it makes the rolling radius a little large for the best performance. 700c x 30 or 33mm work nicely for road use. 650b: 650b x 50mm are ideal, as are the WTB 650b x 47mm range of tyres. A 650b x 2.1" will fit depending on wheel/tyre brand. Smallest recommended 650b tyre is 45mm, the rolling radius is too small below this.

InSearchOf: This bike is designed for very high volume tyres. 29"/700c: 29" x 2.4 is an ideal all-rounder, although a 2.5" will go depending on wheel/tyre brand. A 2.2"/2.25" works well for faster/firmer terrain and a 2.0" is really the minimum before you are compromising performance. 27.5"/650b: If you require a very large contact patch, for soft/loose conditions such as desert crossings and snow & mud then a high volume 650b tyre could be the best option. We recommend a 2.8" tyre. 3.0" is a little too large and cumbersome and anything smaller reduces the rolling radius too much.

Please bear in mind that some tyres inflate to larger diameter than others, aspect ratios vary and also rim width can alter the fitted width of the tyre considerably, so we cannot guarantee that all tyre models will fit. Contact us and we'll be very happy to talk tyres for hours!

We've spec'd the Bokeh 1x builds with full SRAM HRD hydraulic disc brake groupsets. '1x' is a multi-terrain performance drivetrain with maximum chain security thanks to the narrow-wide chainring and jockey wheels and 'clutched' rear-mech. The range of gears is equivalent to a 2x compact drivetrain, but with the elimination of doubled-up crossover gears. '1x' are lighter, quieter, and more secure than 2x set-ups. However, the incremental gear ratio changes that can make long dragging climbs that much easier are missed on 1x drivetrains so you'll have to consider which gear system suits your riding best.

We also offer 1x builds for our BokehTi, Resolution, Definition and Aspect bikes. The InSearchOf is 1x specific but can be used with 2x gearing.

Yes you can. We now specify the excellent Campagnolo Ekar and Chorus groupsets with an increasing number of our builds.

All 24mm Campagnolo chain sets will work perfectly on both the Resolution and Definition framesets. However there are just a couple of things to remember:

EPS Resolution builds require the use of the Campagnolo EPS sleeve, available from 'accessories' in our store.

ALL Definition and Bokeh Alu builds also need the EPS sleeve to shield the internally routed cable/hose from the rotating chainset.

We build all Resolution/Definition Mason bikes with 140mm rotors. The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using an adaptor], if you are using Shimano IceTech rotors then 140mm rotors either end are fine. A 160mm up front is best if you are using cable braking. 140mm is the maximum recommended diameter for the rear. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

All SRAM Bokeh bikes are built with 160mm rotors front and rear. The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using an adaptor]. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

All Shimano Bokeh bikes are built with 160mm front and 140mm rear rotors. The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using an adaptor]. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

Our InSearchOf bikes are built with 180mm front and 160mm rear rotors.

With the disc brakes, you need to bed them in gradually at first to avoid 'glazing' the pads. This just means braking firmly but not too hard and doing some long gradual stops when new. Rather than braking too hard and standing the bike on it's nose! This will make the brakes much stronger and longer lasting.

The wheel/disc-caliper should have been set exactly during the building process but may need a slight adjustment. Can you just check that the wheel is fully home in the dropouts and that the QR is done up tightly? The wheel may be quite tight in the dropouts when new [this is the way it should be] but will bed in with use.

If you are still getting disc rub then this is quite common with a new bike before the brakes are properly bedded in. Take the bike up and do a few stops, firmly but gradually pulling the bike up to a stop from a moderate speed. You shouldn't be trying to stand the bike on it's front wheel! This could glaze up the pads/discs, it's good to bed the brakes in gradually if you want best performance.

Anyway, after a few firm pull-ups the rubbing may well have disappeared, if not you can easily adjust the centering of the caliper on the disc-rotor;

- Loosen the caliper bolts until the body is just free enough to slide on the slotted holes.
- Grab the front brake, pull it firmly on and hold while you re tighten the caliper bolts. This will re-center the caliper and pads on the rotor.
- Spin the wheel and it should be sorted.

This is most likely the result of 2 possible situations: 1. There is air in your brake lines and they need a bleed; 2. The brake pads are contaminated. If the brake lever has any sort of sponginess or a generally unpositive feel to it, then head to your local bike shop and kindly ask them to have a look. But if the brake levers feel firm and positive when pulled, then there may be oil/fluid on the pads.

You'll want to remove the brake pads according to either the Shimano (p.39) guide or TRP (p.2) guide. Give the pads a quick look for any signs of oil or residue. If they appear to be dry and oil-free, refresh the surface with some emery cloth, but if there is clearly contamination then it's best to replace them for new ones.

Resolution/Definition/Aspect:

The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using adaptor], if you are using Shimano IceTech rotors then 140mm rotors either end are fine. A 160mm up front is best if you are using cable braking. 140mm is the maximum recommended diameter for the rear but a 160mm will go. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

Bokeh:

Recommended rotor sizes depend on your build specification:

SRAM - 160mm front and rear.

Shimano - 160mm front and 140mm rear.

The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using adaptor] but we recommend using a minimum of 160mm up front if you are using cable braking. 160mm is the maximum recommended diameter for the rear. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

InSearchOf: The HotShoe fork is designed for Flat-Mount 160 or 180mm rotor sizes (the first fork to take this standard!) We recommend 160mm for the rear.

Resolution/Definition/Aspect/Bokeh: These frames be fitted with a 31.8mm front mech clamp. 

BokehTi: These frames use a 34.9mm front mech clamp.

InSearchOf: These frames use a 34.9mm front mech clamp.

We like internal routing, but not at the expense of practicality and efficiency in the attempt to hide 10cm of hose or cable. Internal routing is excellent for keeping hoses and cables out of harms way and also makes strapping on frame bags much simpler and cleaner. It's also easier to keep the frame clean and of course the aesthetic is much improved!

All cable routing is designed to naturally drain, so there are no 'sumps' to affect shifting performance, this is one of the reasons that the rear shift cable is routed in this way on our Resolution, AspectTi and BokehTi models. Other brands route it under the BB and back up, but this creates a sump for moisture to collect, the area under the BB shell is also prone to rock strikes and damage from negotiating logs on the trail! 

The rear shifter cable is very neatly hidden behind the seat stay and hardly noticeable on the built bike. In addition, our routing through the top tube and down behind the seat stay allows the cable to be cleanly removed when building for electronic shifting, with no unsightly and redundant cable stops.

The top tube ports also double up as internal dynamo light routing.

Our bikes are shipped with the relevant MultiPort parts for it’s build kit, but if you are after specific MultiPort parts then contact us directly.  You can see the MultiPort parts for your frameset or bike in our intitial set-up and care guide.

It's really important to grease both the MultiPort parts and screw threads on installation. This just helps to maintain the easy in/out swapping of the MultiPorts, and further prolongs the frame lifetime. 

Yes, please contact us directly to discuss which MultiPorts you need and we can ship them to you directly.

The Definition and Resolution frames/bikes are designed to work with full-size 35mm width mudguards.
We recommend the use of SKS Bluemels mudguards.

The Bokeh can be fitted with 45mm SKS Bluemels 'guards to suit 700C x 35mm tyres. With 650b wheels, we recommend the 53mm Bluemels.

The ISO works with the SKS Bluemels '75U' [75mm width] mudguards.

Take a look at our V1 'Mudguards 101' for fitting guidance.

Have a look through our FaceBook page for a ton of pictures of Masons with mudguards, and if you want detailed pictures then contact us and we will happily email you some. We’ve got SKS Bluemels mudguards on our webshop and can send them in the box with your bike but unfortunately cannot fit them to the bike as they tend to get damaged and potentially damage the bike during transit.

Take a look at our V1 'Mudguards 101' for fitting guidance. This is the first iteration, it's a work in progress!

Yes. Each frame set is shipped after a thorough pre-build process. Firstly, all threads are chased to remove paint build-up. Next, the lower headset cup and disc mount surfaces are faced, then we face and chase the BB shells to ensure the crank bearings fit easily and perfectly squarely for a long life. Finally, we hand polish and wax each frame set.

Our complete bikes are built with 25mm spacing underneath the stem and 15mm above. All forks take a maximum of 40mm spacing. 

Firstly, you will need to rotate the handlebars into the position that you are comfortable with. A baseline to go from is to have the final inch of the drop section of the handlebars parallel with the ground. Adjust the rotation of the bars to allow for the most comfortable position when you are on the hooded section of the brake levers. After this, you will need to set the saddle height. Again, this is a highly individual preference and a baseline is to have the saddle at hip height, and a slight curve in the leg when the pedal is at the furthest point away from your body. You may also want to adjust the saddle fore/aft position. Again with the general rules, your knee will ideally be directly the pedal axle when sitting in the middle of the saddle.

As you can see, there are no firm facts for how you should be sitting on the bike and we do recommend a bike fit to maximise enjoyment of your Mason, and to limit the chances of injury.

We searched out the best and most highly recommended decal makers and paint finishers. Absolutely no expense is spared on finishing. The paint finishes are deep and lustrous, with a thick coat of colour and two coats of lacquer.

One of the main benefits of using an alu. frame is the inherent corrosion resistance, but we've taken the extra measure of having them treated for corrosion resistance anyway. The aluminium frames are treated with anti-corrosion coatings inside and out before paint. It's more expensive to do it this way, but the finish is super durable and will stay that way for a long time.

We have also taken weather-proofing into consideration with the hardware design of our bikes. We use marine-grade stainless steel bolts to secure bottle cages and mudguards, and we use high-chromium content stainless steel mech hangers and wear inserts.

We searched out the best and most highly recommended decal makers and paint finishers. Absolutely no expense is spared on finishing. The paint finishes are deep and lustrous, with a thick coat of colour and two coats of lacquer.

The steel frames are treated with 'cataforesi' anti-corrosion coatings inside and out before paint. It's more expensive to do it this way, but the finish is super durable and will stay that way for a long time.

We have also taken weather-proofing into consideration with the hardware design of our bikes. We use marine-grade stainless steel bolts to secure bottle cages and mudguards, and we use high-chromium content stainless steel mech hangers and wear inserts.

STOP PRESS: We do now!
Well, actually, we do but it’s in a really small jar and it’s nearly empty. We’re working hard to get more touch-in paint, but in the meantime please don’t hesitate to contact us if you need any.

NB; It is with regret that we can longer deliver Touch-In Paint to U.S destinations due to shipping regulations, however we are very happy to provide you with paint codes for colour matching paint.

In the unlikely event that you may hear a creak, please remember that the list of possible causes for creaking in bicycles is eclectic and possibly-endless. However, you can check the following components as they are frequent offenders:

Check QRs that they are tightened correctly.
Check that pedal threads are clean, lubed, and torqued to correct setting.
Check that chainset and BB are correctly fitted and torqued correctly.

Please contact us directly if the creak persists after making these checks, alternatively refer to your local bike shop to get a professional opinion.

A clean bike is a fast bike. A loved and cherished bike is faster.
Just hot soapy water for cleaning and a decent car polish to keep it shrugging off the dirt and damp. As it's disc-brakes and hydraulics, there will be a lot less maintenance than normal. The brakes stay adjusted, so it's just a matter of keeping an eye on the disc-pads and having them replaced when necesary and keeping the gears adjusted as things bed in.
There's an adjuster for the front mech near the bars and the rear on the actual rear mech itself. But, stay in touch and we'll advise when ever you need help.

Please contact us directly to discuss your situation. Any warranty claims regarding the steering, transmission or braking components that we use will be dealt with the original component manufacturer, so with this in mind it’s always worth contacting the manufacturer directly.

The choice of bottle cage can make a strong visual impact on the overall impression of a bicycle, we love the adjustable Wolf Tooth/King Cage 'MorseCage' HERE but we also think the following cages are well-suited to our bicycles:

King Cage Iris
Arundel Stainless Steel
Nitto R80

Pedal choice is a highly personal decision and we do not supply pedals with bicycles, but we are more than happy to advise you on what pedals may be best suited to your cycling needs. Each bicycle build is otherwise ready to ride.
The bike is 99% assembled, the front wheel needs to go in [you may need to spread the fork a little for the wheel to drop in, but that is correct] and the rear tyre needs air. You'll need to turn the bars and straighten them up and then tighten them with an allen key. The saddle needs to go in and be adjusted for height, you'll settle on the best height after a few rides. We have put a selection of spacers above/below the stem, so you can get comfortable with the bar height by moving them up and down to get the bar height right as you get used to the bike.

For the Resolution, Definition and Aspect bikes (or Bokeh in 'road setup') you can run the larger volume tyres a little softer than a 'race' tyre, 75-90psi instead of 110, but experiment and see what works for you. As you may have noticed, the recent trend with tyre sizes are going up. Where it used to be 19c tyres at 120psi, it is now more common to see 25c tyres being raced at 90psi. We find that riding a steel bike with 28c tyres, you just take strides over any imperfections in the road and maintain speed over a range of surfaces. The added comfort of the larger tyres makes a world of difference over longer durations, and they are confidence inspiring too!

The 700 x 35mm tyres used on the Bokeh bikes can be run at 40-60psi and it's worth adjusting them for varying terrain to get most grip and performance. Lower pressures work well when using tubeless.

The 650b x 50mm tyres used on the Bokeh also work well at the above pressures and can be run even lower for max traction off-road when using tubeless. Pump them back up for zipping home...

The very large volume 650b x 2.8" or 29" x 2.4" tyres on the InSearchOf work nicely at lower pressures, say 35-40psi. But of course it depends on your riding style and the wildly varying conditions that this bike is designed to concquer!

We would also add that it’s worth really getting used to the capability of the disc brakes. Of course they are more powerful, but you will find that the modulation made possible with hydraulic discs means that you can really focus on steering and turning the cranks, rather than getting tied up in the braking.

The mech hanger and wear inserts are easily replaced. All parts are available in our 'Accessories' section.

Yes you can, you are very welcome to visit us at Mason Barn and try various models, sizes and wheel/tyre combos to narrow things down to your ideal bike. We have a riverside gravel/country lanes loop that is an absolutely ideal test for our bikes. The loop will take you about 50mins at a reasonably brisk pace.

Please bear in mind that we have a limited number of sizes/models available for demos, so we may have your size but not the exact size/model/colour that you are interested in. We’re expanding our demo range as we grow so get in touch to see what we’ve got available.

We are happy to meet you and chat about all aspects of fit, models and build options before your ride.

Please book in from our Contact Page using the 'Book a Test Ride' dropdown.

The Full Geometry Chart lists all essential dimensions for each frame size, but the correct sizing for each individual does vary. This chart should be treated as a rough guideline for sizing for most of our models, but use the chart on the InSearchOf page for sizing specific to this model. We highly recommend using a reputable bike-fitter to determine the best frame size for you. You can get some more information here.

Yes, we know that correct fit is very important for comfort and performance, so stem, bar and crank length dimensions vary throughout the bike sizing range. You can view a detailed breakdown of the geometry sizes and component adjustments for each build under the full geometry chart.

We can usually adjust the contact zone sizing requirements at your request, so please contact us to discuss this, or just leave your sizing detail in the order notes box and the checkout page.

It's also possible to alter your gearing ratios, there may be a small upcharge for this. Contact us to go through your gearing options.

Mason Cycles ship with the following items:

Deda Headset. Expander-bung for fork. M∆SON Macro clamp. Marine Grade Stainless bolts x 12. M∆SON 3D printed Structural Nylon BB guide inc screws. M∆SON 3D printed Structural Nylon mudguard mounts for fork x 2. Cable liner for front mech. Di2 rubber grommet 45º x 2. Rubber blanking grommet x 1.Resolution only: P-Clips x 2 for running rear-mech cable down drive-side seat-stay

Yes we do. We have teamed up with V12 Finance to offer 0% finance as a payment option for our bikes. You can spread the payments for your new bike over a 6, 10, or 12 month period. If you would like to see how the installments would be repaid, try our online calculator HERE.

Please contact us for more details on how to choose V12 finance as a payment option. 

Please click THIS link for important safety information and detailed usage instructions relating to our 'F-Stop' Axle System.

Resolution/Definition models fitted with 12mm Thru-Axles relate to this information and owners should thoroughly read through the 'F-Stop' Axle System manual.

Bokeh models are fitted with 12mm Thru-axles front + rear and owners should thoroughly read THIS important safety information manual.

We'll set-up the front brake to be operated by the Right Hand lever for all UK destinations. For destinations outside of the UK, please choose your brake set-up in the Config. menu above the 'Order This Bike' button.

YES.

US AND Non EU customers: For customers located outside of the EU, Mason Cycles will not include UK VAT at 20% in the final invoice. The customer will be responsible for paying this tax separately. Upon arrival of the Bicycle/Frame in your respective countries or states, you may be subject to local taxes and import duties. TNT/FedEx will serve as the shipping partner for international shipments, and they will contact you directly regarding any necessary customs procedures once the package arrives in your country or state.

When goods enter the United States from overseas, it is considered an importation and must be cleared by U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP). US Government regulations now stipulate that when the goods are over the value of $2,500 the customers 'Social Security Number' (SSN) or 'Tax Identification Number' (EIN) must be inputted on the commercial invoice that is supplied with the required shipping documents.

This is now standard procedure and we cannot circumvent this requirement as it's a US Customs regulation. The correct information MUST be on the commercial invoice or the shipment will not be allowed to enter the USA.

There is more information HERE.

Here are the recommended bolt lengths for mounting Flat-Mount brake calipers to our frames. Lengths vary because of the different dropout designs and materials used across our range.

We always recommend using genuine hardware and consulting us directly using the 'Technical' dropdown, or using a qualified cycle mechanic if in doubt.

Resolution: FRONT - 15mm. REAR - SRAM: 17mm. Shimano: 23mm.

Definition: FRONT - 15mm. REAR - SRAM: 22mm, using 2mm spacer under bolt head. Shimano: 28mm, using 2mm spacer under bolt head.

Aspect: FRONT - 15mm. REAR - SRAM: 27mm. Shimano: 33mm.

Bokeh: FRONT - 15mm. REAR - SRAM: 22mm. Shimano: 28mm.
BokehTi: FRONT - 15mm. REAR - SRAM: 27mm. Shimano: 33mm.

InSearchOf: FRONT - 15mm. REAR - SRAM: 17mm. Shimano: 23mm.