FAQs

  1. Please click THIS link for important safety information and detailed usage instructions relating to our 'F-Stop' Axle System.

    Resolution/Definition models fitted with 12mm Thru-Axles relate to this information and owners should thoroughly read through the 'F-Stop' Axle System manual.

    Bokeh models are fitted with 12mm Thru-axles front + rear and owners should thoroughly read THIS important safety information manual.

     

  2. The Full Geometry Chart lists all essential dimensions for each frame size, but the correct sizing for each individual does vary. This chart should be treated as a rough guideline for sizing, but we highly recommend using a reputable bike-fitter to determine the best frame size for you. You can get some more information here.

  3. Yes, we know that correct fit is very important for comfort and performance, so stem, bar and crank length dimensions vary throughout the bike sizing range. You can view a detailed breakdown of the geometry sizes and component adjustments for each build under the full geometry chart.

    We can usually adjust the contact zone sizing requirements at your request, so please contact us to discuss this, or just leave your sizing detail in the order notes box and the checkout page.

    It's also possible to alter your gearing ratios, there may be a small upcharge for this. Contact us to go through your gearing options.

     

     

  4. Here's an intitial set-up and care guide. If you have any unaswered questions then please contact us directly.

  5. Yes we do. We have teamed up with V12 Finance to offer 0% finance as a payment option for our bikes. You can spread the payments for your new bike over a 6, 10, or 12 month period. If you would like to see how the installments would be repaid, try our online calculator HERE.

    Please contact us for more details on how to choose V12 finance as a payment option. 

     

  6. Mason Cycles ship with the following items:


    Deda Headset. Expander-bung for fork. M∆SON Macro clamp. Marine Grade Stainless bolts x 12. M∆SON 3D printed Structural Nylon BB guide inc screws. M∆SON 3D printed Structural Nylon mudguard mounts for fork x 2. Cable liner for front mech. Di2 rubber grommet 45º x 2. Rubber blanking grommet x 1.Resolution only: P-Clips x 2 for running rear-mech cable down drive-side seat-stay

  7. No, but our Penta seat post is the perfect product to compliment our frames and bikes and is available here.

  8. Mason Cycles framesets have a warranty which entitles the original purchaser to a free replacement within 5 years of purchase should there be any problem with the materials or workmanship on the frame. This covers faulty manufacturing, but not normal wear and tear. This guarantee only applies to the original purchaser of the bike.

    Please follow this link for more details regarding the Mason Cycles warranty.

    It is our sincere hope that  it never happen, but Mason Cycles also offer a crash replacement discount. In the event of a crash, please contact us to discuss further.

  9. For our Resolution and Definition frames, we recommend the use of maximum 28mm tyres with mudguards - all of our new builds are supplied with 28mm tyres, but without mudguards these frames can accommodate 32mm width road (untreaded) tyres. Please bear in mind that some tyres inflate to larger diameter than others, aspect ratios vary and also rim width can alter the fitted width of the tyre considerably, so we cannot guarantee that all tyre models will fit.

  10. We've spec'd the Bokeh 1x builds with full SRAM HRD hydraulic disc brake groupsets. '1x' is a multi-terrain performance drivetrain with maximum chain security thanks to the narrow-wide chainring and jockey wheels and 'clutched' rear-mech. The range of gears is equivalent to a 2x compact drivetrain, but with the elimination of doubled-up crossover gears. '1x' are lighter, quieter, and more secure than 2x set-ups. However, the incremental gear ratio changes that can make long dragging climbs that much easier are missed on 1x drivetrains so you'll have to consider which gear system suits your riding best.

    At the moment we're sticking with 2x Shimano setups for our Resolution/Definition bikes but there's no reason that you can't build these bikes with 1x drivetrains.

  11. Yes you can. All 24mm Campagnolo chain sets will work perfectly on both the Resolution and Definitin framesets. However there are just a couple of things to remember:

    EPS Resolution builds require the use of the Campagnolo EPS sleeve, available from 'accessories' in our store.

    ALL Definition builds also need the EPS sleeve to shield the internally routed cable/hose from the rotating chainset.

  12. We build all Resolution/Definition Mason bikes with 140mm rotors. The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using an adaptor], if you are using Shimano IceTech rotors then 140mm rotors either end are fine. A 160mm up front is best if you are using cable braking. 140mm is the maximum recommended diameter for the rear. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

    All SRAM Bokeh bikes are built with 160mm rotors front and rear. The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using an adaptor]. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

    All Shimano Bokeh bikes are built with 160mm front and 140mm rear rotors. The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using an adaptor]. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

     

  13. With the disc brakes, you need to bed them in gradually at first to avoid 'glazing' the pads. This just means braking firmly but not too hard and doing some long gradual stops when new. Rather than braking too hard and standing the bike on it's nose! This will make the brakes much stronger and longer lasting.

  14. The wheel/disc-caliper should have been set exactly during the building process but may need a slight adjustment. Can you just check that the wheel is fully home in the dropouts and that the QR is done up tightly? The wheel may be quite tight in the dropouts when new [this is the way it should be] but will bed in with use.

    If you are still getting disc rub then this is quite common with a new bike before the brakes are properly bedded in. Take the bike up and do a few stops, firmly but gradually pulling the bike up to a stop from a moderate speed. You shouldn't be trying to stand the bike on it's front wheel! This could glaze up the pads/discs, it's good to bed the brakes in gradually if you want best performance.

    Anyway, after a few firm pull-ups the rubbing may well have disappeared, if not you can easily adjust the centering of the caliper on the disc-rotor;

    - Loosen the caliper bolts until the body is just free enough to slide on the slotted holes.
    - Grab the front brake, pull it firmly on and hold while you re tighten the caliper bolts. This will re-center the caliper and pads on the rotor.
    - Spin the wheel and it should be sorted.

     

  15. This is most likely the result of 2 possible situations: 1. There is air in your brake lines and they need a bleed; 2. The brake pads are contaminated. If the brake lever has any sort of sponginess or a generally unpositive feel to it, then head to your local bike shop and kindly ask them to have a look. But if the brake levers feel firm and positive when pulled, then there may be oil/fluid on the pads.

    You'll want to remove the brake pads according to either the Shimano (p.39) guide or TRP (p.2) guide. Give the pads a quick look for any signs of oil or residue. If they appear to be dry and oil-free, refresh the surface with some emery cloth, but if there is clearly contamination then it's best to replace them for new ones.

  16. Resolution/Definition:

    The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using adaptor], if you are using Shimano IceTech rotors then 140mm rotors either end are fine. A 160mm up front is best if you are using cable braking. 140mm is the maximum recommended diameter for the rear. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

    Bokeh:

    Recommended rotor sizes depend on your build specification:

    SRAM - 160mm front and rear.

    Shimano - 160mm front and 140mm rear.

    The fork can take a 140 or 160mm rotor [using adaptor] but we recommend using a minimum of 160mm up front if you are using cable braking. 160mm is the maximum recommended diameter for the rear. HUNT wheels feature Centrelock hubs.

  17. All of our framesets are to be fitted with a 31.8mm front mech clamp. 

  18. Our bikes are shipped with the relevant MultiPort parts for it’s build kit, but if you are after specific MultiPort parts then contact us directly.  You can see the MultiPort parts for your frameset or bike in our intitial set-up and care guide.

    It's really important to grease both the MultiPort parts and screw threads on installation. This just helps to maintain the easy in/out swapping of the MultiPorts, and further prolongs the frame lifetime. 

     

  19. Yes, please contact us directly to discuss which MultiPorts you need and we can ship them to you directly.

  20. The Definition and Resolution frames/bikes are designed to work with full-size 35mm width mudguards.
    We recommend the use of SKS Longboard mudguards.

    The Bokeh can be fitted with 45mm SKS Bluemels 'guards to suit 700C x 35mm tyres.

  21. Take a look at our V1 'Mudguards 101' for fitting guidance. This is the first iteration, it's a work in progress!

  22. Have a look through our FaceBook page for a ton of pictures of Masons with mudguards, and if you want detailed pictures then contact us and we will happily email you some. We’ve got SKS Longboard mudguards on our webshop and can send them in the box with your bike but unfortunately cannot fit them to the bike as they tend to get damaged and potentially damage the bike during transit.

    Take a look at our V1 'Mudguards 101' for fitting guidance. This is the first iteration, it's a work in progress!

  23. Yes. Each frame set is shipped after a thorough pre-build process. Firstly, all threads are chased to remove paint build-up. Next, the lower headset cup and disc mount surfaces are faced, then we face and chase the BB shells to ensure the crank bearings fit easily and perfectly squarely for a long life. Finally, we hand polish and wax each frame set.

  24. Our complete bikes are built with 25mm spacing underneath the stem and 15mm above. The Aperture2 fork takes a maximum of 40mm spacing. 

  25. MASON cycles are resilient hand-crafted crafted bicycles, but to maximise the ownership experience and potential of your bicycle, we advise that you clean the frame regularly with a soft-fibre rag and bicycle-friendly detergent. It is best to support your Local Bike Shop and allow them to perform regular services. It's a good idea to make sure that you apply/re-apply grease to the MultiPorts whenever you have to remove them from the frame.

  26. Firstly, you will need to rotate the handlebars into the position that you are comfortable with. A baseline to go from is to have the final inch of the drop section of the handlebars parallel with the ground. Adjust the rotation of the bars to allow for the most comfortable position when you are on the hooded section of the brake levers. After this, you will need to set the saddle height. Again, this is a highly individual preference and a baseline is to have the saddle at hip height, and a slight curve in the leg when the pedal is at the furthest point away from your body. You may also want to adjust the saddle fore/aft position. Again with the general rules, your knee will ideally be directly the pedal axle when sitting in the middle of the saddle.

    As you can see, there are no firm facts for how you should be sitting on the bike and we do recommend a bike fit to maximise enjoyment of your Mason, and to limit the chances of injury.

  27. We searched out the best and most highly recommended decal makers and paint finishers. Absolutely no expense is spared on finishing. The paint finishes are deep and lustrous, with a thick coat of colour and two coats of lacquer.

    One of the main benefits of using an alu. frame is the inherent corrosion resistance, but we've taken the extra measure of having them treated for corrosion resistance anyway. The aluminium frames are treated with anti-corrosion coatings inside and out before paint. It's more expensive to do it this way, but the finish is super durable and will stay that way for a long time.

    We have also taken weather-proofing into consideration with the hardware design of our bikes. We use marine-grade stainless steel bolts to secure bottle cages and mudguards, and we use high-chromium content stainless steel mech hangers and wear inserts.

  28. We searched out the best and most highly recommended decal makers and paint finishers. Absolutely no expense is spared on finishing. The paint finishes are deep and lustrous, with a thick coat of colour and two coats of lacquer.

    The steel frames are treated with anti-corrosion coatings inside and out before paint. It's more expensive to do it this way, but the finish is super durable and will stay that way for a long time.

    We have also taken weather-proofing into consideration with the hardware design of our bikes. We use marine-grade stainless steel bolts to secure bottle cages and mudguards, and we use high-chromium content stainless steel mech hangers and wear inserts.

  29. STOP PRESS: We do now!
    Well, actually, we do but it’s in a really small jar and it’s nearly empty. We’re working hard to get more touch-in paint, but in the meantime please don’t hesitate to contact us if you need any.

  30. In the unlikely event that you may hear a creak, please remember that the list of possible causes for creaking in bicycles is eclectic and possibly-endless. However, you can check the following components as they are frequent offenders:

    Check QRs that they are tightened correctly.
    Check that pedal threads are clean, lubed, and torqued to correct setting.
    Check that chainset and BB are correctly fitted and torqued correctly.

    Please contact us directly if the creak persists after making these checks, alternatively refer to your local bike shop to get a professional opinion.

  31. A clean bike is a fast bike. A loved and cherished bike is faster.
    Just hot soapy water for cleaning and a decent car polish to keep it shrugging off the dirt and damp. As it's disc-brakes and hydraulics, there will be a lot less maintenance than normal. The brakes stay adjusted, so it's just a matter of keeping an eye on the disc-pads and having them replaced when necesary and keeping the gears adjusted as things bed in.
    There's an adjuster for the front mech near the bars and the rear on the actual rear mech itself. But, stay in touch and we'll advise when ever you need help.

  32. Please contact us directly to discuss your situation. Any warranty claims regarding the steering, transmission or braking components that we use will be dealt with the original component manufacturer, so with this in mind it’s always worth contacting the manufacturer directly.

  33. The choice of bottle cage can make a strong visual impact on the overall impression of a bicycle, but we believe the following cages are well-suited to our bicycles:

    King Cage Iris
    Arundel Stainless Steel
    Nitto R80

  34. Resolution/Definition:

    As more thru-axle/disc wheels become available aftermarket, we will look at developing these models to feature thru-axle dropouts. The Mason x Hunt wheels are already adaptable for thru-axle.

    Effective thru-axle dropouts for metal frames are actually quite hard to achieve. Once again our frames are plenty stiff enough laterally and the ride qualities are exactly as we want, so adding thru-axle dropouts will only add weight, complication and possibly alter the ride feel of the bike.
    We are all about progression though, and the sensible use of technology where it counts and improves things. So, as things develop we will certainly look at thru-axle configurations for the future and for new models.

  35. Pedal choice is a highly personal decision and we do not supply pedals with bicycles, but we are more than happy to advise you on what pedals may be best suited to your cycling needs. Each bicycle build is otherwise ready to ride.
    The bike is 99% assembled, the front wheel needs to go in [you may need to spread the fork a little for the wheel to drop in, but that is correct] and the rear tyre needs air. You'll need to turn the bars and straighten them up and then tighten them with an allen key. The saddle needs to go in and be adjusted for height, you'll settle on the best height after a few rides. We have put a selection of spacers above/below the stem, so you can get comfortable with the bar height by moving them up and down to get the bar height right as you get used to the bike.

  36. You can run the larger volume tyres a little softer than a 'race' tyre, 90psi instead of 110, but experiment and see what works for you. As you may have noticed, the recent trend with tyre sizes are going up. Where it used to be 19c tyres at 120psi, it is now more common to see 25c tyres being raced at 100psi. We find that riding a steel bike with 28c tyres, you just take strides over any imperfections in the road and maintain speed over a range of surfaces. The added comfort of the larger tyres makes a world of difference over longer durations, and it looks pretty good too!

    We would also add that it’s worth really getting used to the capability of the disc brakes. Of course they are more powerful, but you will find that the modulation made possible with hydraulic discs means that you can really focus on steering and turning the cranks, rather than getting tied up in the braking.

  37. The mech hangar and wear inserts are easily replaced. Stay tuned to our website as these parts will be made available soon, but please contact us directly if you wish to replace yours.

  38. Yes you can, you are very welcome to visit us at our Brighton HQ and take a bike out along the coast or through the lanes of the South Downs.

    Please bear in mind that we have a limited number of sizes/models available for demos, so we may have your size but not the exact size/model/colour that you are interested in. We’re expanding our demo range as we grow so get in touch to see what we’ve got available.

    We are happy to meet you and chat about all aspects of fit, models and build options before your ride...hell, we may even join you for a couple of hours!

  39. Yes, all our bikes can take a rear rack. We use separate eyelets for the mudguard and rack to ensure proper fitment.
     
    A normal load of 30kg with 40kg max. is right for the Bokeh Alu, a normal load of 20kg with 30kg max. is right for the Resolution & Definition models.

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